Reply 17m Patrick Hasburgh said: "Stay present, Eternity lives in the moment... What's great about surfing is it's not rigged, it can't be gamed. It's the ocean and gravity, energy collecting on the side of the world that gathers together to give me 30 seconds or so of a pleasurable, and certainly primitive, sensation. You have to pay attention when you surf, to be ready, to calculate, measuring your strength against the power of the ocean; it requires some negotiation because no one is stronger than Mother Nature. Surfing isn't as serene as it looks, there is time to ponder but only between waves. When "it's working" you have to go, nothing else matters; you're not thinking about your CC debt or a broken heart. You are truly in the moment—it feels eternal, until it's gone "poof"... So elusive... but for those split seconds? ... The fleeting memory feels like something that was "endless," — like a dream is, until it's not."
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ReplyDelete17m
Patrick Hasburgh said: "Stay present, Eternity lives in the moment... What's great about surfing is it's not rigged, it can't be gamed. It's the ocean and gravity, energy collecting on the side of the world that gathers together to give me 30 seconds or so of a pleasurable, and certainly primitive, sensation. You have to pay attention when you surf, to be ready, to calculate, measuring your strength against the power of the ocean; it requires some negotiation because no one is stronger than Mother Nature. Surfing isn't as serene as it looks, there is time to ponder but only between waves. When "it's working" you have to go, nothing else matters; you're not thinking about your CC debt or a broken heart. You are truly in the moment—it feels eternal, until it's gone "poof"... So elusive... but for those split seconds? ... The fleeting memory feels like something that was "endless," — like a dream is, until it's not."